Biltmore – Disneyland for Adults

No one builds 179,000 square foot houses anymore unless you live in the Persian Gulf and your job title is Sheik. But between the 16th century and 1914 hundreds were built, mostly in Western Europe. So what changed? The outbreak of World War One put a severe crimp on the finances of European aristocrats and the labor demands of industry made it increasingly difficult to retain the servants, house maids and gardeners necessary to maintain large homes on remote rural estates. When the soldiers came home after the war they were a lot more ambivalent about working for a social class that they blamed for starting the carnage. In the United States, there was never such a surplus of labor that made it feasible to staff a gigantic house. Being a household servant in the U.S. was also never considered a respectable vocation like it was in Europe and American gilded age plutocrats would often complain about the turnover and bad attitudes of their household staffs. The Great Depression brought any pretenses to being the lord of a great castle to a crashing halt. Even today with rampant income inequality in the U.S. and twelve digit tech fortunes hardly anyone builds houses such as were built during the so-called gilded age. Those that try usually end up with a giant fiasco rather than a gorgeous house. The Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina is famous for the very reason that there is nothing else like it in the U.S. It was finished in 1895 and nothing else like it has been built since. But even in the heyday of huge houses and chateaux, owners struggled to cover the expenses and keep these properties afloat. The financial pressures are even worse today with property taxes, estate taxes and income taxes. So how do homes like Biltmore and similar properties in Europe stay afloat?

The story of Biltmore is well documented but here is a brief recap. It was the creation of George Washington Vanderbilt, a grandchild of Cornelius Vanderbilt, the 19th century railroad and steamship baron who started off with a single sailboat in Staten Island, New York and ended up with the largest fortune in the U.S. at the time, about $200 billion in today’s money. Illiterate, crass and profane, Vanderbilt was nevertheless a financial genius. He left most of his fortune to his eldest son, William Henry Vanderbilt, who doubled the value of his inheritance during his life. William Henry and his wife Maria had eight children and when William passed away in 1885 these kids took their inheritances and cut loose on houses, yachts and parties becoming the poster children of gilded age excess that is portrayed in movies, books and television. The youngest of these eight kids was George. His elder brothers ran the railroads while young George indulged in books and art. George also suffered from respiratory difficulties and in the 1880s at the suggestion of his doctors George started visiting Asheville for the warm, dry air and then started buying up small farms south of town. Much of this land had been overworked and was in poor condition and George had a vision of creating a modern version of a European feudal estate where the locals would live in villages that he created and work on farms and artisanal workshops on the estate while their children were educated in schools he built. The house was modeled after the chateaux that George had seen along the Loire valley in France and was designed by Richard Morris Hunt. The grounds were designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, generally regarded as the pioneer of landscape architecture in the U.S. At 179,000 square feet, Biltmore is the largest house ever built in North America.

By 1895 the house was completed and three years later George married Edith Stuyvesant Dresser, a descendant of the Dutch colonial governor of New Netherland (which eventually became New York). People have often commented on the lack of feminine touches in the design and decor of Biltmore and that is because it was built by a bachelor. Edith didn’t arrive on the scene until it was already built. George and Edith had three other homes in NYC and Maine. If you’re ever in Manhattan visit the Versace store on Fifth Avenue and you’ll be standing in George and Edith’s former townhome. Unfortunately, George’s vision of a self-supporting manorial estate didn’t pan out and after he died in 1914 at age 51 after a botched appendectomy his widow was forced to start selling parts of the estate to pay for taxes and maintenance. Part of the former estate is now a portion of the Pisgah National Forest and other parcels eventually became absorbed by the expanding city. The house started welcoming visitors as early as 1930 to help pay the bills.

George and Edith had one child, Cornelia Stuyvesant Vanderbilt. Cornelia grew up at Biltmore and after coming into her inheritance she married John Francis Amherst Cecil, a descendant of William Cecil, chief advisor to Queen Elizabeth I. Cornelia and John lived at Biltmore for a few years but Cornelia grew bored and restless and moved to Paris in 1934, dyed her hair pink, changed her name to Nilcha and divorced John. She never returned to the U.S. and married two more times before passing away in 1976. John and Cornelia had two sons, William A.V. Cecil and George H.V. Cecil, and after Cornelia bolted for Paris John stayed on at Biltmore and raised the boys until they left for school in England and Switzerland. John never remarried, managed the estate and lived in the bachelor wing of Biltmore until his death in 1954. Between 1956 and 1976 Biltmore, still owned by the absent Cornelia, stood empty but welcomed paying visitors.

When Cornelia died in 1976 William and George Cecil inherited the estate which included the house and a dairy business, a remnant of the artisanal industries that George Vanderbilt had started 80 years before. By this time Biltmore was an enormous white elephant that bled money. George, as the elder brother, got to pick what he wanted to inherit and he picked the dairy which at least turned a modest profit. William got stuck with the money-losing house. William essentially had a choice. Try to make Biltmore pay for itself, see if the federal or state government would take it on as a national park or house museum (as happened with Hyde Park his great uncle’s home in New York), try and sell it or demolish it.

As with Biltmore and the Cecil brothers, owners of huge historic houses in Western Europe also faced severe financial difficulties in the postwar era. The ravages of war, taxes to pay for the war, houses requisitioned for military use and then beat up and postwar societal attitudes that frowned upon architectural excess left owners with mostly bad choices. Some owners sold off their ancestral houses and lands that in many cases had been in the family for centuries or donated their houses to non-profits like the National Trust in England or to the local community in France. In England, hundreds of historic homes were demolished in the postwar era although most of the truly unique and attractive houses survived. Even though many historic homes had welcomed visitors for centuries the postwar era saw the emergence of the stately home industry where owners began to aggressively promote their properties as tourist attractions. Aristocratic landowners accustomed to the privacy that a large estate afforded became aggressive marketers and entrepreneurs opening up restaurants, gift shops, wedding chapels and the like. Today when you visit a historic home like Blenheim Palace or Chatsworth in England you will be rubbing shoulders with hundreds of visitors, wedding guests or business people hosting an event. Even with all this extra income the business of running a big historic house is typically little better than a break-even endeavor. But at least it keeps the house in the family and owners get to enjoy it during the off hours.

The Cecil brothers followed this model at Biltmore. George sold the dairy business and opened a winery and tasting room and parceled out much of the Biltmore agricultural land for residential and commercial development, hotels and shopping centers. Other parts of the estate have been developed for a wide range of tourism related uses. There is a mountain biking center, an equestrian center, a fitness center, a spa, several restaurants, a wedding venue, meeting facilities, banquet facilities, two hotels, a wide variety of retail shops, a nursery center, a shooting range, hiking trails, even a falconry center. And lest we forget there is also the Biltmore mansion that is open for tours starting at $70 per person and running as high as $130 per person at Christmas time when the house is decorated for the holidays. There are attractions for children as well but Biltmore has really become what some jokesters have dubbed “Disneyland for Adults.” Biltmore has become a major economic engine of Asheville and the major tourist attraction of western North Carolina. In the stately house industry Biltmore has become a model for not just financial sustainability but also a lucrative business for the Vanderbilt-Cecils, something that the original builder could never have imagined and wasn’t able to achieve. The chart below shows annual attendance figures for Biltmore and some of its peers in the stately and historic house industry. As shown, Biltmore is near the top of the table.

Note: if you include all castles then sleeping beauty’s castle at Disneyland has them all beat with 17 million annual visitors.

Of the fourteen houses in the table above, five are still used as homes today at least part of the year. Biltmore isn’t one of them. It hasn’t been lived in for nearly 70 years. Both of the Cecil brothers passed away by 2020 and the two businesses, Biltmore Company (which runs the house and most of the tourist attractions) and Biltmore Farms (the winery and property development arm), are now run by their children who live in smaller, more modern and manageable homes. While purists might decry the commercialism of Biltmore or similar properties in Western Europe it must be remembered that few of these houses were ever able to pay for themselves even at their peak in the 17th and 18th centuries. Their finances were pressured by factors beyond their owners control such as declining agricultural prices, wars, depressions, confiscation by communist regimes, death and taxes. Tourism has saved most historic houses especially the truly big ones like Biltmore or Blenheim Palace in England. Income from tourism pays for the upkeep and most of these houses have never looked better. Biltmore is just the extreme example of this trend and arguably the most successful.

Bill Cecil, great grandson of the builder of Biltmore and current owner

For more on Vanderbilt houses be sure to click here for a post about Hyde Park, the creation of George Vanderbilt’s brother, Frederick, in New York as well as information on the mansion building binge of that generation of Vanderbilts. Or click here for a post about the stunning High Lawn house, uniquely the only gilded age Vanderbilt house that is still lived in by the family. For information about visiting Biltmore, click here. Double check your available credit card balance and have fun.

Mountain Meadow

Big rural estates with classically designed houses are rare in the western U.S. Most wealthy people in the west congregate closer together on the weekends in places like Santa Barbara or Napa Valley when not residing closer to the big cities. The few exceptions were built in the early decades of the 20th century. In the San Francisco Bay Area it was once fashionable to carve out large estates in San Mateo County. Most of these were long ago carved up for suburban development but a couple of relics remain. Villa Lauriston is one such example, still in private hands. Filoli, near Woodside, is another example that is now open to the public, is a popular wedding venue, and includes a notable garden. Mountain Meadow (AKA the Phleger Estate) is another relic that still exists in private hands (for now at least).

Mountain Meadow was once part of the Spring Valley Water Company, a water utility and reservoir for San Francisco owned by William Bourn. Bourn built his weekend house, Filoli, on company land and in 1927 he carved out a section and sold it to Samuel Eastman, a Vice President with Spring Valley, and his wife Adelaide. Eastman hired the architect, Gardner Dailey, to design the 8,000 square foot house that sits on the estate today, a fusion of mission and tudor styles that the Eastmans called Summerholm.

In 1935 the Eastmans sold Summerholm to Herman and Mary Elena Phleger. The Phlegers bought adjoining parcels to create a 1,300 acre estate that they dubbed Mountain Meadow. Herman Phleger was a Harvard-trained lawyer from Sacramento who became a major force in California, national and international legal circles. He frequently represented big corporations trying to bust labor unions and was a personal attorney to William Randolph Hearst, the archetype of sensationalist journalism and misinformation and the builder of Hearst Castle. Herman was even one of Hearst’s pallbearers at his funeral. On the positive side of the ledger, Phleger served as legal counsel to the prosecutors at the Nuremberg trials of nazi war criminals and was instrumental in restructuring the German government and economy in the wake of the Second World War. He was heavily involved in arms control, reducing Cold War tensions with the Soviet Union and negotiating many of the treaties that define the post-war era. Herman Phleger died in 1984 and soon afterwards his widow and daughter began the process of selling most of Mountain Meadow to the Peninsula Open Space Trust. This process was completed in 1994 and most of the estate was transferred to the Golden Gate National Recreation Area as a park and natural area open to the public.

The house itself and 24 acres were carved out of the sale to the Trust and separately sold in 1991 to Gordon and Betty Moore. Gordon Moore was a co-founder and CEO of Intel, the maker of most of the microprocessors that power today’s personal computers and laptops. The Phleger family has also held on to 23 acres of the former Mountain Meadow estate. The Moores used their home, still called Mountain Meadow, as a weekend retreat until 2023 when both Gordon and Betty passed away a few months apart. Mountain Meadow is currently for sale for $29.5 million. The listing can be seen here.

The Livingstons

Unlike much of the world the United States has never had a royal family (except for Hawaii) or a class of nobles or titled aristocrats. Founding fathers such as George Washington, James Madison and Thomas Jefferson may have lived on big estates like English squires but they were never addressed as the Duke of Virginia or the Earl of Charlottesville. Like you and me they were commoners. Many Americans believe that the Kennedys are the closest thing to royalty in the U.S. However, there is another family that would have a better claim. The Livingstons of New York have not only lived like aristocrats since the 17th Century but have produced signers of the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution, Presidents, diplomats, members of congress and cabinet secretaries and have had a long and continuing influence on political life in the U.S. This post presents a brief history of the Livingstons and some of the country estates and mansions they built which for the most part still exist today.

Livingston family coat of arms

The Livingston experience in America started in 1674 when 21 year old Robert Livingston arrived in Boston after having lived in the Netherlands with his Scottish parents. His father, the Reverend John Livingston, was banished from Great Britain in 1662 for not pledging loyalty to the recently enthroned King Charles II in the aftermath of the English Civil War. The Livingstons settled in Rotterdam where young Robert studied commerce and became fluent in Dutch. These skills served Robert well in the new world when he settled in Albany, New York which had recently been part of the Dutch colony of New Netherlands and where the power elite was still mostly composed of Dutch traders and landowners. One of these landowners was Nicholas Van Rensselaer who controlled the 700,000 acre Rensselaerwyck manor in the Hudson River Valley (roughly between Albany and Kindershook). Nicholas took a liking to the enterprising scotsman and appointed him as his secretary and as “Indian agent” on the manor. Within a couple of years Nicholas died and Robert married his widow, the brilliant and hard-charging Alida Schuyler of the influential Schuyler family. Together this power couple took charge over the commerce and politics of Albany and the Hudson River valley. In addition to managing extensive real estate holdings, the Livingstons financed slave trading and high seas piracy and Robert served in the Provincial Assembly of New York for many years.

Robert Livingston the Elder, the 1st Lord of Livingston Manor (1654-1728)

In 1686, Robert and Alida received a land grant of 160,000 acres on the left bank of the Hudson (roughly the southern third of today’s Columbia County) and the Livingston Manor was born. Contrary to popular belief, a manor was not a house but a unit of land and a political subdivision that was owned by a private individual. Manors were the prevailing form of land ownership and political subdivision in Europe at the time and the system was introduced to French, Dutch, Spanish and British colonies in North America in the 17th century. Manors were usually granted to favored individuals that demonstrated great administrative and commercial abilities with the blessing of whichever king was reigning back in England. Often times the owner of a manor in North America was the second-born son of a manorial lord in the old country where the first-born son would inherit the entire estate, a system known as primogeniture that still exists today in the U.K. although now daughters can inherit as well. George Washington’s estate, Mount Vernon, and Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello were manorial-type estates originally granted by colonial governors .

The owners of manors, usually referred to as a lord (British), patroon (Dutch), seigneur (French) or a don (colonial-era California), were granted extensive civil, judicial and governance powers over their manorial lands. The lord of a manor was in effect the landlord, governor, mayor and judge for those who lived on the manor. In return, the lord was expected by the sovereign or their colonial representative to govern competently, make the land prosperous, collect taxes and rents and settle disputes. Owners of manors would typically build a nice house on their property from which to administer the manor and this became known as the “manor house.” Many famous stately homes in the U.K. started out as manor houses and the term has come to be equated with any large, classically designed house whether or not it had anything to do with an actual manor. Interestingly, manor houses were not particularly exclusive or private in centuries past and manor tenants would often eat their meals and party on a daily basis with the lord in the house itself.

Manorial lands were farmed by tenant farmers who paid rents to the lord of the manor in the form of cash, crops or labor. Tenancies would usually pass from generation to generation pretty much tying the tenants to the land. Being a tenant on a manor was better than being a slave but your options and opportunities were still limited. Although it sounds harsh by today’s standards, manorial systems of governance made sense back in the day when central governments were relatively weak and communication and transportation was difficult and arduous.

Manorial systems slowly died out in Europe and North America as citizens demanded more rights and economic autonomy but remnants of the manor system still exist today. Manorial estates still predominate today in England with some dating back to the 16th century when King Henry VIII confiscated all the lands owned by the Catholic Church (which was most of England) and divvied it out to his favorite courtiers. The last manorial rents in Quebec were paid as late as 1970. To the present day some homeowners in Maryland still pay “ground rent” twice a year to some landlord, a relic of the days when Maryland was the domain of the colonial landowner and governor, the Baron Baltimore. (The 6th and final Baron Baltimore who ruled the colony before the British were kicked out actually never set foot in Maryland and reputedly spent all his income on drugs and prostitutes).

The Livingston Manor was largely settled by German refugees (hence the present-day town of Germantown in Columbia County). At its peak, the manor covered 700,000 acres. Robert (the Elder) and Alida Livingston had nine children and passed away in 1728 and 1727 respectively. Unlike in England where manorial estates were passed intact to first-born sons, the Livingston Manor was divided between his third and fourth sons, Philip and Robert. Robert the Younger founded the Clermont Manor, site of the Clermont mansion (shown above), on a 13,000 acre parcel carved out of the larger manor. Philip became the Lord of Livingston manor and he and his wife, Catherine, had 11 children including signers of the Declaration of Independence and the U.S. Constitution. Philip’s oldest son, yet another Robert, inherited Livingston Manor in 1749 but upon his death in 1790 the estate was divided among his five sons (which included another Robert) and a son-in-law.

The demise of the Livingston Manor as a viable real estate business was sealed during the “Anti-Rent Wars” of the 1840s. As the Livingston estate was subdivided among various heirs a problem arose as the ratio of rent-paying tenants to Livingston family landlords decreased. Like other manorial landlords who found themselves in the same boat, the Livingstons responded by becoming more aggressive about collecting delinquent rents and cracking down on unpermitted logging and mining. Manor tenants, emboldened by the new ideas of Jacksonian democracy, revolted against the landlord-tenant system and worked through the courts, the state legislature and used a fair amount of violence to abolish the semi-feudal system which predominated in New York. By 1850 the manor system was all but dead.

The Livingston lands, now not so lucrative as they had been, continued to be divided among heirs over the decades or were sold off. It was fairly common for Livingstons to marry cousins or in-laws to try and keep the ancestral lands within the family but over time most of the historic Livingston Manor passed out of family ownership. However, remnants of the estate are still owned by Livingston descendants in the present day.

Map of the Livingston Manor (the smaller pink shape at bottom of photo)

Livingston descendants have had prominent roles in the political, social and artistic spheres in the United States right up to the present day. Descendants include Eleanor Roosevelt, David Crosby, founder and guitarist of Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young, and actors Jane Wyatt and Montgomery Clift. President George H. W. Bush was a 10th generation descendant of Lord Robert the Elder. The Livingstons linked up with the Astor family in 1818 when a Livingston married the son of John Jacob Astor (America’s first multi-millionaire and New York City slumlord). Their daughter-in-law was Caroline Astor “The Mrs. Astor” who invented social snobbery in America with her list of the 400 people it was deemed acceptable to invite to parties. The Livingstons also linked up through marriage with other prominent New York landlord dynasties such as the Van Rensselaers (owners of the Rennselaerwyck Manor), Van Cortlandts, Goelets and Schermerhorns and also had links to the Roosevelt and the Phipps family that gained their fortune from Carnegie Steel (later U.S. Steel). There is even a Livingston link (by marriage, not blood) with the Vanderbilt family.

The Livingstons built 20-30 mansions (depending on how you define a mansion) along the Hudson River in Columbia and Dutchess counties over the decades. Most of these still exist although most were sold out of the family over the years. The following paragraphs describe ten of the more notable or architecturally distinguished homes.

Clermont

Clermont

Robert Livingston the Younger was the third son of the original Lord of Livingston Manor. He was educated in Scotland and England and briefly practiced law in Albany before returning to the Hudson Valley to help manage the manor. Upon the death of his father in 1728, he inherited a 13,000 acre chunk of the Livingston Manor south of the present day town of Germantown. He named his estate Clare (“Clear”) Mount because of the fine view of the Catskill Mountains from his picturesque home overlooking the river. Robert the Younger expanded his estate south into Dutchess County and across the river during his tenure and by the time he died in 1775 the estate amounted to 600,000 acres. Clermont passed to his son, another Robert, who was referred to as “Judge Livingston” but the Judge died a few months later and the estate was then managed by his widow, Margaret Beekman Livingston, for the next several years. In 1777 the British army sailed up the Hudson River burning and pillaging as they went and burned Clare Mount house down as punishment for the Livingston family’s support of the American Revolution. Margaret had the house rebuilt to its present form by 1782 and renamed the house and estate Clermont (French for Clear Mountain). Her oldest son, yet another Robert, was known as “The Chancellor” in reference to the high judicial office he held in New York State. The Chancellor was one of five founding fathers who drafted the Declaration of Independence (although it was his cousin Philip who signed it) and administered the first oath of office to the new President, George Washington. He served as Minister to France under President Thomas Jefferson and in that role negotiated the Louisiana Purchase with the Government of Napoleon Bonaparte. In his spare time he was a freemason and experimented with methods of raising sheep. One of the Chancellor’s great great great granddaughters was Eleanor Roosevelt. The Chancellor’s descendants continued to live at Clermont right up to 1962 when the last of the Clermont Livingstons, Alice Delafield Clarkson Livingston, deeded the estate to the State of New York. It is now known as Clermont State Historic Site and can be visited by the public to see the house as it was furnished in the early 20th century. Click here for more information about Clermont and how to visit this fascinating and historic home.

Montgomery Place

Montgomery place

Montgomery Place dates back to 1805 and was built by Janet Livingston Montgomery and named in honor of her husband, Richard Montgomery, a general in the Continental Army fighting against the British in the American Revolution and who was killed during an unsuccessful invasion of Quebec. Janet’s mother was Margaret Beekman Livingston of Clermont. The house was inherited by Janet’s brother, Edward Livingston in 1828. Edward was a U. S. Senator representing Louisiana, Secretary of State and Minister to France under President Andrew Jackson and also a Mayor of New York City. The house stayed in the Livingston family until 1986 when it was sold to a non-profit organization and opened as a house museum after several years of renovation. In 2016, it was purchased by the adjacent Bard College and is now used as a classroom and special events center. The public can visit the property and explore the grounds and gardens. Click here for information on visiting Montgomery Place.

Callendar House

Callendar House

Callendar House is located near the town of Tivoli and was constructed in 1794 by Henry Gilbert Livingston who lived on the next estate northward along the river called The Pynes. Henry sold it the following year to a Livingston cousin. Originally called Sunning Hill, the house wasn’t dubbed Callendar House until 1860 when it was bought by Johnston Livingston after having been out of the family for a few decades. The name Callendar House was a nod to an ancestral Livingston family castle in Falkirk, Scotland that still exists. Johnston was an associate of banker J.P. Morgan and was one of the bankers who helped to mitigate financial disaster in the Panic of 1907. He was also one of the founders of both Wells Fargo Bank and American Express. Johnston’s descendants continued to live at Callendar House until 1976 when the house was put up for auction. Callendar House was then owned by a Swiss investment banker named Jean de Castella and used as a horse breeding operation. The house is currently owned by a New York City couple that work in finance especially in the energy sector and is not open to the public. Incredibly, The Pynes, the estate next door, is still owned by Livingston family descendants to the present day.

Staatsburgh

Staatsburgh

The house that would eventually become today’s Staatsburgh was built in 1833 by Morgan Lewis and his wife Gertrude Livingston who was a daughter of Margaret Beekman and Judge Livingston of Clermont. Morgan’s father had been a signer of the Declaration of Independence and Morgan himself was the third Governor of New York State as well as a State legislator. The Lewis/Livingstons had originally bought the 334 acre estate in 1792 and built a colonial style house on the site. This first house was destroyed in 1832 in a fire deliberately set by a disgruntled tenant farmer and rebuilt in a greek revival style. Three generations of Livingstons later, Ruth Livingston and her husband, Ogden Mills, hired architects McKim, Mead and White to remodel and enlarge Staatsburgh in 1896 by essentially building the Beaux-Arts mansion that stands there today over and around the existing house. The Mills’ also had homes in California (where Ogden’s father made his fortune in the gold fields), Paris, New York City and Newport, Rhode Island. Staatsburgh was just their weekend place while they were staying in the City. Their son, Ogden Livingston Mills, inherited Staatsburgh in 1929. Ogden Jr. was the U.S. Secretary of the Treasury when the Great Depression started and he convinced President Herbert Hoover to respond with tax increases and fiscal austerity which, as it turned out, made the depression even worse. Ogden’s sister, Gladys Mills Phipps, inherited Staatsburgh in 1937 but soon afterwards donated the estate, since expanded to 1,600 acres, to the State of New York for use as a state park. Unfortunately, the State failed to properly maintain Staatsburgh and the house deteriorated over the ensuing decades. It wasn’t until just recently that a concerted effort was made to try and rehabilitate the house. Part of the problem is that the 1896 construction was done in a very slipshod manner and the consequences have magnified over the years. Staatsburgh is open to the public and while the exterior of the house is in marginal condition the interior rooms are extravagantly furnished and show the house in all of its gilded age glory. For more information on Staatsburgh including how to visit, click here. Another house designed by McKim, Mead and White is a few miles south in Hyde Park, the Vanderbilt mansion – click here for more.

Teviotdale

Teviotdale

Teviotdale was designed and built in 1774 by Walter Livingston, the sixth child of Robert Livingston, the third and final Lord of Livingston Manor. Teviotdale is located southeast of the town of Linlithgo and, unlike most of the Livingston homes, is well inland from the Hudson River. Walter married his cousin, Cornelia Schuyler, who herself was related to Alida Schuyler who founded the Livingston Manor with Robert the Elder. As mentioned previously, marrying cousins and in-laws was one way the Livingstons tried to keep the family real estate business intact. Walter and Cornelia had six children and the youngest, Harriet Livingston, married Robert Fulton, in 1808. Fulton was the inventor of the steamboat (christened the Clermont in honor of the family who helped finance the project). Tragically, Robert died of pneumonia seven years later after falling through ice into the frozen Hudson River while trying to rescue his attorney. It may not have been the happiest of marriages anyway as Fulton was not only obsessively busy with inventing but was also bisexual and what we would call polyamorous today. He tried to coax Harriet into polyamorous adventures but she declined. After Robert died Harriet moved into Teviotdale with her four children. Fulton had made good money from his boat inventions and between this legacy and some Livingston money Harriet was a wealthy widow. Unfortunately this situation attracted fortune hunters and a particularly bad one caught the eye of Harriet. She married Englishman, Charles Dale, in 1816 and within a few years he had burned through her inheritance including mortgaging and then losing Teviotdale through foreclosure. Teviotdale was sold to one of the house servants, Christian Cooper, and it remained in the Cooper family until it was bought by a Livingston descendant in 1927. Sadly, the house was abandoned in 1945 and largely forgotten until 1969 when it was bought and restored by interior designer Harrison Cultra and his partner Richard Barker. Upon the death of Barker in 1988, Teviotdale was willed to their friend, Victor Cornelius, a public finance specialist, who still owns it today. Mr. Cornelius has not only continued the restoration but has also bought surrounding properties to bring the estate closer to its historical extent. Teviotdale is a private home and not open to the public.

Rokeby

Rokeby

Rokeby is located north of Rhinebeck in a large area of woods and country estates that also include Edgewater, Sylvania and Steen Valetje, all Livingston homes covered in this post. The country estate that would become Rokeby was carved out of Clermont in 1800 after the death of Clermont’s Margaret Beekman Livingston for her daughter, Alida. Alida would marry John Armstrong in 1789. Armstrong was a U.S. Senator representing New York and Secretary of War and Minister to France (like an ambassador) under President James Madison. Armstrong had also been a member of the Continental Congress, the precursor to what we now call the U.S. Congress. He is the only member of the Continental Congress (which included most of the founding fathers of the United States) who lived long enough to be photographed. John and Alida completed Rokeby in 1815 originally calling it La Bergerie which means “sheepfold” in French and refers to the merino sheep which the Armstrong/Livingstons raised at the estate, a gift from Napoleon Bonaparte. John and Alida’s fifth child was Margaret Rebecca Armstrong who married William Backhouse Astor Sr., the son of John Jacob Astor, thereby linking the two most influential and wealthiest families in the U.S. during the early 19th century. William Astor bought La Bergerie from his father-in-law in 1836 and Margaret renamed it Rokeby after a fictional location in Scotland from a Sir Walter Scott poem.

William and Margaret’s granddaughter, Margaret “Maddie” Astor Ward, married John Winthrop Chanler in 1862. Chanler was a lawyer and member of the Winthrop family who settled Massachusetts in the 17th century. He served in Congress for seven years representing New York. John and Maddie had 11 children with eight living to adulthood. Tragically, both Maddie and John died of pneumonia within two years of each other while their children were still young. When they were orphaned the oldest, John, was just 15. The youngest was just three years old. Rokeby was left to the children, popularly known as the “Astor orphans,” and they each had a trust fund to finish their education and maintain an upper class lifestyle but they had minimal adult supervision while growing up. Thus began the strange and intriguing story of Rokeby as a sort of playhouse that continues to this day. The Astor family guarded the financial assets of the orphans and John Chanler’s cousin, Mary Marshall, became sort of a foster mother while the orphans tormented their tutors, goofed off, pulled pranks and roughhoused around the estate. By the turn of the century all the orphans had sold their share of Rokeby to the 8th orphan, Margaret Chanler, who started a dairy farm on the property with her husband, Richard Aldrich. The last surviving orphan, Alida Beekman Chanler, died in 1969. Alida was the last surviving member of “the 400,” the list of socially acceptable people according to one of her great aunts, Caroline Schermerhorn Astor, AKA “The Mrs. Astor.”

Margaret’s descendants still live at Rokeby. Whatever Astor money came down through inheritance is mostly gone and the house is in a state of genteel decay sustained by some organic farm income and hosting weddings. The house is also used as a retreat for visiting artists and writers. Incredibly, the house and the 400 acre estate is in its 338th year of Livingston/Astor family ownership. The house is not open to the general public but if you want to get married there this link has all the information. A couple of miles south of Rokeby is another Livingston/Astor house covered in this blog, Marienruh – click here for more on that.

Steen Valetje

Steen Valetje

Steen Valetje (small stony valley in Dutch) was carved out of the southernmost 100 acres of the Rokeby estate by William Backhouse Astor Sr. as a wedding gift for his daughter, Laura Eugenia Astor. Laura married Franklin Hughes Delano in 1844 and the house was completed seven years later. The Delano family had landed in North America with the same group of pilgrims who came over on the Mayflower (but on a different ship). Delano was involved in a shipping business before he married a Livingston/Astor and, afterwards, became active in managing the Astor real estate business. Franklin’s grand nephew was Franklin Delano Roosevelt, the 32nd President of the United States. Franklin and Laura Delano raised Norwegian ponies and Aberdeen Angus cattle on the estate and in later years spent most of their time in Monaco and Italy. Franklin died in 1893 and Laura gifted Steen Valetje to their nephew, Warren Delano IV, a coal company executive and a mentor to his nephew, FDR. Warren was also passionate about Norwegian horses but this hobby proved deadly when some of his horses took fright at a train and bolted into its path with Warren at the reins killing him instantly. His eldest son, Lyman Delano, inherited the estate and moved in with his wife, Leila, in 1922. They renamed it Mandara and kept it until Leila passed away in 1967. Thereafter, the estate had several owners and was renamed again to Atalanta. Currently, the estate, renamed yet again back to Steen Valetje is owned by Joseph Bae, the CEO of private equity giant Kohlberg Kravis Roberts and Co.

In addition to politics, the Delano family had wide ranging business interests in shipping, banking, railroads and drug dealing. Warren’s father, also named Warren and whose motto was “Just say yes,” made a fortune shipping Turkish opium to China in the 1840s. Another Delano, William Adams Delano, was a partner in the architecture firm of Delano and Aldrich responsible for many famous gilded age commissions in the first half of the 20th century including a significant Vanderbilt house covered in this blog, High Lawn, in the Berkshires. Click here for more on High Lawn.

Fox Hollow

Fox Hollow

Judge Livingston and Margaret Beekman Livingston of Clermont had ten children and five of them (or their descendants) built homes discussed in this post. Their third child, Margaret Livingston, married a surgeon named Thomas Tillotson who served in the American Revolution. Thomas and Margaret developed the Linwood estate overlooking the Hudson River south of Rhinebeck starting in 1788. Ten years later Tillotson subdivided Linwood creating the Glenburn estate to the east and deeded it to his 12 year old daughter, Janet. Glenburn was later enlarged by acquiring part of the neighboring Grasmere estate (another Livingston property). Janet’s granddaughter, Alice, would marry another Hudson Valley aristocrat, Tracy “Pup” Dows, and together they hired the society architect, Harrie Lindeberg, to design and build a colonial style mansion reminiscent of Mount Vernon in 1910 and called it Fox Hollow. Tracy and Alice lived a pleasant life as Hudson Valley gentry keeping busy with riding, sailing, dancing, drinking and traveling. They had three children, Stephen, Margaret and Deborah. Deborah, was an accomplished equestrian who trained at the Spanish Riding School in Vienna, home of the famous white Lipizzaner horses. She rode and trained alongside General George S. Patton prior to the Second World War and the general later pulled strings at the end of the war to place the Spanish Riding School under U.S. Army jurisdiction so it would not fall under the control of the Soviet Red Army which was occupying Vienna at the time.

Like many post-gilded age members of the idle class, the Dows’ spent more than they earned and they had to vacate Fox Hollow in 1930 and the house became a girls school. When Tracy Dows passed away in 1937 he left Fox Hollow to his three children. They subsequently sold the estate to their distant relative, Vincent Astor, who owned Ferncliff to the north of Rhinebeck. Deborah bought back 200 acres and established a horse farm, Southlands, that still exists as a foundation focusing on equestrian activities. Vincent Astor eventually sold Fox Hollow thus ending eight generations of family ownership dating back to Robert Livingston the Elder, the Lord of Livingston Manor. Today, Fox Hollow is a residential addiction treatment center so unless you have a drug problem it’s not possible to visit the house.

In an interesting footnote, Linwood was eventually bought by a brewer named Jacob Ruppert who owned the New York Yankees from 1915 until his death in 1939. Ruppert developed the intimidating Yankee teams of the 1920s and 30s including buying Babe Ruth from the Boston Red Sox and initiating the “Curse of the Bambino” that plagued Red Sox until 2004. He also built Yankee Stadium on land that had been owned by the Astor family in the Bronx.

Edgewater and Sylvania

Edgewater

Edgewater sits on a 250 acre estate right on the left bank of the Hudson (on the edge of the water) just west of Barrytown. The land under Edgewater house was a wedding gift from John Livingston (one of the children of Judge Livingston of Clermont) to his daughter, Margaretta, when she married in 1819. The Neo-classical house was built soon afterwards. When Margaretta’s husband and her father died in the 1850s she sold the house and moved to London. The new owner was a New York banker named Robert Donaldson and Edgewater stayed in his family until 1902. Edgewater was then bought by a member of the Astor family, Elizabeth Astor Winthrop Chanler, one of the “Astor orphans” who grew up at neighboring Rokeby, another Livingston/Astor estate (see above). Elizabeth and her husband, writer John Jay Chapman (whose great great grandfather was John Jay, the first Chief Justice of the U.S. Supreme Court), used Edgewater house as a guest house and built another house called Sylvania on the hill behind Edgewater. Edgewater stayed in the Livingston/Astor/Chapman family until 1946. In 1950, Edgewater was bought by Gore Vidal, a writer and cultural zeitgeist during the 1960s and 1970s. Vidal was a step-brother, once removed, to Jacqueline Kennedy and was famous for defining the spirit of the age through his many witticisms that include:

“It is not enough to succeed. Others must fail”

“A narcissist is just someone who is better looking than you are”

“The United States was founded by the brightest people in the country. And we haven’t seen them since”

And finally…… “No good deed goes unpunished”

Gore Vidal was also famous for getting into very public feuds and lawsuits with other prominent writers and intellectuals such as Truman Capote (over allegations of drunkeness at the White House), conservative commentator William F. Buckley (where Buckley threatened to “sock him in the face”) and novelist Norman Mailer (about whom Vidal said “Once again, words failed Norman Mailer” after Mailer allegedly head butted Vidal backstage on the Dick Cavett Show).

Sylvania

By 1969, Edgewater had been whittled down to just 3 acres. It was bought that year by Richard Jenrette, an investment banker who founded Donaldson, Lufkin and Jenrette (DLJ) an influential Wall Street investment bank later acquired by Credit Suisse. Jenrette bought back some of the historical estate lands east of the house and restored the house itself including historically accurate furnishings. In 2018, Jenrette created the Classical American Homes Preservation Trust which currently owns Edgewater. Edgewater can be visited by the public a few days each month. Click here for more information about Edgewater and how to visit. Sylvania is a private home and not available for visits.

Much has been written about the Livingstons and their influence continues to reverberate through the cultural and political life of the United States right up to the present day. For more information about the family and their architectural heritage on the Hudson River, consider buying Life Along the Hudson: The Historic Country Estates of the Livingston Family available on Amazon here (not sponsored).

Wayside

This is Wayside Manor, a 17,000 square foot neo-classical/palladian house completed in 2005 and sited on 100 acres in the Virginia Hunt Country near Middleburg, VA.  The house and landscaping was designed by the Washington D.C.-based firm of Franck & Lohsen. The property is owned by a D.C.-based developer who has built many office buildings for lobbying groups and associations over the years. The clients are big art collectors and lent their collection to the National Gallery of Art for exhibition while the house was being constructed.

If I’d been the client I would have gone with a different paving surface than asphalt (crushed rock?) and hidden the garages away but otherwise this is a great example of the New Classicism movement in residential architecture that started in Europe in the late 20th century after modernist and post-modernist schools ran their course. In the United States, interest in classical architecture was renewed in response to the destruction of classically-designed structures like New York City’s Pennsylvania Station. You don’t know what you’ve got until it’s gone when it comes to iconic buildings. Many architects on both sides of the Atlantic such as Quinlan Terry in the UK and Allan Greenberg in the US have pioneered a new appreciation and appetite for classically-designed houses that are every bit as fetching as the iconic country houses from the 17th or 18th centuries.

Just two miles east of Wayside is another interesting country house, Half Way House, covered in this blog (click here). Also, if you want to learn more about the Virginia Hunt Country and how they preserve its rural character, click here. Wayside Manor is a private home and not open to the public.

Ferne Park in Wiltshire, England. A great example of the new classicism trend in residential architecture (for those that can afford it). Designed by British architect, Quinlan Terry, the house was built in 2001 and may be the most impressive country house built in the world in the last half century.